The route west of Green River Utah on I-70 cuts through one of the most spectacular rock walls in the American West. Known as the San Rafael Swell the massive wall stretched north-north for dozens of miles and rises for several thousand feet to the top of a plateau before descending back downhill to the sleepy town of Salida Utah.

Just north of the interstate is a twenty mile long gorge cut through thick layers of sandstone thousands of years ago as the land buckled under the enormous forces created as the nearby Henry Mountains and the far distant La Sals were pushed skyward by the interplay of the slowly moving tectonic plates pushed against one another.

Known as Black Dragon Canyon, it was the original route used by the Fremont Indians, explorers and 18th Century migrants as a way west through the Swell. The canyon wash empties into the San Rafael River a half mile north of the point where those heading west begin the climb up through the Swell. Halfway up to the highest point on I-70 a glance down to the right provides a dramatic view of Black Dragon. At this point the canyon is deep and wide and the views across it to the north stretch far onto the horizon.

To explore Black Dragon the entry point is marked by a long stretch of barbed wire with a solitary gate marking the start of a narrow dirt road that is easy to miss. Like many of the ranch gates along this part of the country the gates are there to keep the cattle in. Or  out. 

The road leads across a small wash that is impassable after most storms but usable not too long thereafter. The road winds for several miles thought sage brush. On the left a side road leads to a beautiful cottonwood-shaded camping spot. Not too far away is a small pictograph panel and an exquisite formation known as Spirit Arch. Perfect for an early morning or evening walk.

A bit further along is the main draw, Black Dragon Canyon. It is possible to drive a bit up into the canyon with high clearance and even further with 4×4 but best is to stop before entering the canyon and enjoy the walk into the vertical walled narrows.

The  panel is not too far ahead and on the right at the base of a vertical section red canyon wall that follows the curve of the canyon as it meanders here and there. Best lighting is in the morning before the sun comes over the top of the rim, subtle light that enriches the red coloring of both the wall and the art.

The images are intense. At one point someone has outlined them in chalk, perhaps for photographic purposes but fortunately has not damaged them much. I am in awe of artists such as the Fremont who were able to capture the spirit or the creatures they have drawn but to use the flowing lines of the sandstone to create a sense of motion, of an aliveness that still remains many centuries later.

There is so much meaning to the art that it is hard to know where to begin. The dog-like creature seemingly appealing to the gods along is worth taking the time to visit the canyon. Anode course, the Black Dragon, its wings in motion, about to soar skyward.